For Peat's Sake

The Ultimate Peat Tasting!

People who claim to be connoisseurs of Scotch whisky who are afraid of that strong flavor that they can't seem to describe are always suspect to me. Chances are they are talking about the fuel long used to malt the barley used in Scotland to make whisky - peat. Yes, it is stinky and pungent and an acquired affection, but so are a lot of things worth discovering. In my opinion, peatiness is worth the few (or many) tries it takes to familiarize oneself to open the door to many of the world's greatest spirits. At its best, the component of peat is the vehicle that drives the many complexities of a whisky, rather than overwhelm. Think of oak or tannins in wine or hops in beer - the balance of strong features to produce a concert of flavors make for a truly exhilarating experience.

I have been fortunate to have been able to sample many of the world's greatest whiskies. On this occasion, I picked a tasting of some of the peatiest Scotches on earth - definitely not a beginner's tasting - and it was quite a line-up:

1. Bruichladdich Octomore ed. 2.1, 5yr (62.5% ABV) - At a peat level of 140 parts per million, this was bragged to be the peatiest whisky in the world at time of production. The nose I can only describe as tires and sea salt air. On the palate, it was certainly bold and proclaimed the peat. Unfortunately, the complexity fell short there, and I couldn't wait to move on.

2. Bruichladdich Octomore "Orpheus" ed. 2.2, 5yr (61% ABV) - This edition had the same peat level as the 2.1, but to make it more interesting was aged in Petrus Bordeaux casks. It seems the wine barrels brought a candy nose and a dimension of complexity and body. Still for its fancy name and tempting credentials, it was not the experience I had hoped for. A step up, but far from a home run.

3. Ardbeg "Supernova" (60.1% ABV) - To be honest, this had already been one of my favorites before this tasting and actually the measuring stick for this little competition. At around 100 parts per million, this whisky still had about double the amount of peat found in a typical peated Scotch. It was 70% bourbon barrel-aged and 30% sherry barrel-aged which altogether produced a bold, balanced powerhouse. A medium level of peat and high degree of alcohol were detected on the nose, and on the palate was a gripping tobacco assault on the senses... but the kind you like! Yes.

4.  Laphroaig Cask Strength, 10yr (56.3% ABV) - This was actually a late addition to the line-up, just because we could. The complexities began with peat flavor, giving way to a long tobacco finish. It had a distinct warming effect going down and full body. It was assertive, yet well balanced... and well-suited for this line of comparison - a winner, if not the winner, and always a favorite.

In conclusion, it is clearly a temptation to use any bold flavor or component to assert superiority. Some chefs rely on pork fat or butter, some beers have to hit you over the head with hops, and some whiskies try to smoke you out. Well, I'm not buying. My two favorites before are still favorites after. Try either for a magnificent Scotch experience and proof of how great peatiness can be as a component of a well-made spirit.